The Omnivorous Fish

There are great restaurants (Wallse), and there are good restaurants (Elmo). There are bad restaurants (Artepasta) and mediocre restaurants (Good). There are even restaurants that aren’t that good, but you want to be good because they’re nearby (Trattoria Daniela) or they have a beautiful dining room (Valbella) or a great wine list (Bellavitae). Then, of course, there are restaurants that are egregiously awful, so bad that when offered a choice between them and Wendy’s, Wendy’s wins with unfettered enthusiasm (Malibu). Rarer still are those restaurants that are sub-Wendy’s that have the the trappings and reputation of something greater.