The Omnivorous Fish

I’m going to say something scandalous:

Prune is probably the best restaurant in New York City.

Wow. I said it.

Prune is as close as it gets to what I would cook for myself, which is one of the reasons I love it so much. That, and everything I have ever eaten there has made me emote audibly. It’s truly a wonderful restaurant.

It’s teeny tiny, but rather than make you feel like fish in a can who should thank them for letting you in, the staff smiles and somehow makes more room, although I am sure how they do it involves witchcraft. The staff is mostly young and, if not pretty, perky. They all seem to be excited about food and wine, and many realize what an extraordinary thing they are part of. It’s kind of fun to watch them know how good the food they’re bringing you is.

All this, and it’s somewhat affordable, with an intrepid if not impressive wine list. It’s organized “Sparkling, White, Red,” but what’s there is worth taking a look through, especially given the very democratic prices (although markup is no less than standard).

So I guess what I’m saying is, go there.

Prune

54 E 1st St, New York 10003
Btwn 1st & 2nd Ave

Phone: 212-677-6221

Listening: NPR. Fair Game is on. She’s funny.

I had brunch today, like a good gay New Yorker. And I had it in the neighborhood, at the sort-of famed New Leaf Cafe in Fort Tryon Park. Having been to pretty destination restaurants before, I withheld enthusiasm. After having the most mediocre $20 hamburger of my life at the Central Park Boathouse, I stand wary of anyplace with a view. The menu didn’t exactly inspire confidence either, loaded with old brunch standbys with a slightly upscale pallor.

Turns out that the eggs benedict- at least- are a solid, predictable favorite in a beautiful space with a beautiful view. Not cheap at 17.95, but all inclusive with coffee and juice and a nice selection of wines, aperitifs and cocktails for your hair of the dog pleasure. They go out of their way to note that the eggs are local and farm fresh, and they were. Not the same as an hours-old Gorzynski egg, but far and away above anything from the supermarket or food distributor.

Very nice flatware, also. Heavy, and good in your hand, but not too fancy. And four tines on the fork, Haddock would be pleased.

New Leaf Cafe, Fort Tryon Park

Listening: “Fly Me Away From Baltimore” Eddie From Ohio

I feel like a new man. The Agent came to visit, I went home for the day, saw some family and bought a new bed. Actually, The Agent bought the new bed, but I helped pick it out. Planning for the new kitchen and other home improvement projects continues and I still have sixty three meals to eat outside major restaurant cities. I hear Hartford has some good places, any truth to this?

We went to Corks, which I mentioned before, the restaurant with the all-American wine list. The list is fascinating and extensive, with at least 200 labels, and the one wine they were out of they told us about immediately upon presenting the wine list, a very nice and impressive touch. I won’t write a full review, because I was so involved with seeing The Agent my attention was not on the food. I will, however tell you what we ate.

We split a salad with some unmemorable fried oysters. It certainly wasn’t bad, but the oysters had either been washed or were simply not that flavorful to begin with. Eating an oyster is all about taking a tender little bite of the ocean, and these were just crusty little bits; they could have been clams or pieces of chicken. The salad was dressed simply and plated with some infused and/or emulsified oils that I don’t remember as being identified, but one of them involved herbs, the other tomatoes. They were flavorful, but didn’t much help the eh-ness of the oysters. I had the duck, which was not only very good, but a sort of barometer about restaurants in Baltimore: when I ordered it, the waitress sheepishly- almost apologetically- told me that the chef recommended it be cooked medium rare to medium. The inflection told me I should at least try it medium. She looked relieved when I said he should cook it however he liked.

The duck came with better-than-average mashed potatoes and some delicately seasoned, if unseasonal psychologically, braised red cabbage. Although, since Baltimore has been having Seattle weather lately, it was actually somewhat appropriate. The meat was just on the medium side of medium rare, probably a symptom of being gun-shy with poultry in Baltimore. All in all, it was a winner.

The Agent had pork three ways: a braised belly, a terrine and a loin chop. Again, I don’t remember all the details to do it justice but I remember enough not to get it again. The terrine was dry and bland, the belly seemed more poached than braised and the chop was completely overcooked. Pork belly needs a counterpoint to its lovely fatty richness, like a crispy exterior or a strong sauce. This was just a flabby piece of pork belly.

We got the cheese plate after, again all American sundries, but not exactly chosen for diversity. There was a reblochon-ish cheese (think brie, but stronger) and two harder cheeses, much too similar to share a three-selection cheese plate. One was not unlike a good aged dubliner, but without the crystals, the other more cheddar-like and less memorable.

The restaurant has all the raw ingredients of greatness, but needs some attention. The menu advertises a chef/owner, but doesn’t specify whether he’s an executive chef or if he’s sweating the line every day. If he is, he might want to take a night off and eat at his place.

I did chat with the sommelier briefly, a lively and charming man named Chris Corker. He knew his stuff, and knew his winemakers. He told us about some of the small pinot noir producers he carries and made no secret that his restaurant was the only place you’re likely to see them in the area. He has an encyclopedic knowledge of the geography of the Central Valley and questions about the AVAs on the wine list were met with enthusiasm and thorough responses.

Short answer: I would go back if I had the time and the crowd to really do the wine list justice, and I would ask a lot more questions about the menu.

Corks

1026 S. Charles Street
Baltimore, MD 21230

410.752.3810

There are different schools of thought in the food world on the merit of innovation. Some people value it above most, if not all, other qualities, preferring to consider the genius of cocoa-infused anchovy paste barquettes than to savor the sacramental releves of Larousse Gastronomique. Some people spurn it and only begrudgingly accept canard a l’orange. Wherever you fall in the debate, it can be agreed that every so often, it is refreshing to have a meal that is simply excellent. This is a meal that is staid, even predictable, but is of such high quality and executed with such technical expertise that there is no debate to its merit: it is merely fantastic.

Some people might wonder if it’s even worth writing about (or visiting) a restaurant that has been around as long as Union Square Cafe. It has been given its accolades, it has made its mark, it has had its moment; enough. I disagree. Restaurants evolve; they undergo changes in staff, both back-of and front-of-house; they change suppliers and menus and chefs and prices. People also just get plain lazy. Not so with Union Square.

Truth be told, the decor is one thing that might stand a little change. It is simple and understated, mostly timeless, but kissed here and there with touches- like vibrant salmon-hued watercolors of ingredients- that are best described as When-Harry-Met-Sally Provincial. Like a rental apartment from the Reagan era, there is certainly nothing wrong, but its modern touches could use a little updating.

One aspect that needs no updating whatsoever is the service. It seems that a knowledgeable waitstaff has somehow come to mean the suggestion of “favorite dishes” to customers. Truly good service, however, remains a balance of enthusiasm and restraint; it is a mixture of knowledge and the desire to serve. Indeed, the reservationist was apologetic, if not empathetic to the difficulties of securing a table. The waiter was friendly, but cordial, professional. It took a long moment to secure his attention, but once we had it, he was practically ideal. Knowledgeable about the menu and wine list, he gave opinions when asked, but remained otherwise occupied with giving us what we wanted.

The food, uniformly excellent, if sometimes uninspired, remains true to its mission: an American menu with Italian flourishes, prepared to branch out, but never at the sake of flavor or consistency. The first appetizer, Yellowfin Tuna Tartare with Salsa Verde, Spicy Aioli, Asparagus-Radish Salad and Potato Crostini, was perhaps the busiest thing on the menu, but truly a triumph. Highest-quality yellowfin, anointed with flecks of brilliant emerald salsa verde- an earthy, herbaceous amalgam of parsley and salty goodies- and garlicky, piquant mayo, was served with a side of what could best be described as some really fantastic chips. The sparse but flavorful salad broke the texture barrier set up by the crisp chips and yielding fish.

Another appetizer- unfortunately the only pasta sampled- was beautifully made and prepared frascatelli. A tiny dumpling resembling a slice of an gnocchi, but with a lighter texture and pure semolina flavor, the frascatelli were supposedly alla carbonara but in reality were sauced with cream, guanciale (a richly flavored, marvelously baconesque product made from the jowls of the pig; certainly worth a google) and pecorino romano cheese. Delicious by any name, but nary an egg in sight.

The main courses, though not as exciting, demanded no less attention. Tiny, tender grilled lamb chops Scotta Dita- marinated in a basil-infused vinaigrette- were cooked exactly medium rare, served with a tart tangle of sauteed insalata tricolore (arugula, belgian endive and radicchio). A simple but delicious potato-gruyere gratin ensured I wouldn’t have to go a whole course without any type of cheese, thankfully. A Pan-Seared Halibut with Spring Vegetable Farrotto and Mushroom Jus was a crusty piece of fish on a bed of grains with perfectly cooked vegetables. Hardly exciting, it is a clear illustration of the menu’s desire to please without offending anyone. It is one of a few dishes on the menu remarkable only in their uncanny perfection.

Incidentally, these were both superb with a Whitcraft 2004 Pinot Noir from Santa Maria Valley.

Desserts cater mainly to the sweet-tooth crowd, but are very good for what they are. A Rocky Road Baked Alaska with Chocolate Cake & Fudge Sauce was comprised of dense, moist cake with a mound of voluptuous cream-and-egg-filled ice cream. Not to be confused with anything low-fat or compromising in one’s experience; this is the kind of ice cream that people care about. A toadstool of lightly sweetened meringue capped off the presentation, a fantastic nod to desserts of this tradition. For those less enamored of the sweets, the restaurant goes out of its way to have on hand an array of cheeses that would make Murray proud. From Maconnais chevres to Cato’s Corner Hooligan (available steps away at the Saturday Greenmarket), the selections show a desire to bring some lesser known but deserving products to the forefront.

Overall, the restaurant’s dedication to quality and commitment to local purveyors- and the unmistakable beauty of something grown close to where you are eating it- make it worth the trip. Innovation will always be around, but, thankfully, so will Union Square Cafe.

unionsquarecafe.com

212.243.4020