Coconut Omelette

Had dinner at one of the Pongsri Thais tonight, this time at 18th and 2nd Ave. I don’t know if they are affiliated or not, but of the three I’ve been to, they are reliable if not wowing. Tonight though, I had a coconut omelette: a salad of fresh coconut, bean sprouts and scallions wrapped inside a paper thin layer of egg. It was unlike anything I’ve had before, and I’m still not entirely sure what to make of it. Like most good Asian food, it was a study of texture as much as anything, but delivered on flavor as well: squeaky-chewy coconut with soft beans in a savory cloud.

I’ve been thinking about tropical fruit a lot lately, I guess it’s the weather. How about a panzanella with cactus pears and pomegranates?

I’m hiring somebody to help speed up the renovation. I’m getting busy and losing interest: bad combination. I want the kitchen cookable by the time the show opens.

Listening: The Indigo Girls “It’s Alright” They are having a Shuffle Renaissance these days.

A light at the end of tunnel

I had brunch today, like a good gay New Yorker. And I had it in the neighborhood, at the sort-of famed New Leaf Cafe in Fort Tryon Park. Having been to pretty destination restaurants before, I withheld enthusiasm. After having the most mediocre $20 hamburger of my life at the Central Park Boathouse, I stand wary of anyplace with a view. The menu didn’t exactly inspire confidence either, loaded with old brunch standbys with a slightly upscale pallor.

Turns out that the eggs benedict- at least- are a solid, predictable favorite in a beautiful space with a beautiful view. Not cheap at 17.95, but all inclusive with coffee and juice and a nice selection of wines, aperitifs and cocktails for your hair of the dog pleasure. They go out of their way to note that the eggs are local and farm fresh, and they were. Not the same as an hours-old Gorzynski egg, but far and away above anything from the supermarket or food distributor.

Very nice flatware, also. Heavy, and good in your hand, but not too fancy. And four tines on the fork, Haddock would be pleased.

New Leaf Cafe, Fort Tryon Park

Listening: “Fly Me Away From Baltimore” Eddie From Ohio

Fatty’s- In Astoria

Last night I had several nice vegetable and seafood dishes in a little place in Astoria called Fatty’s, on Ditmars. I stand corrected.

Listening: John Mayer. Strange time.

Vegetables- Protectors of the National Colon

German Radishes
It’s no wonder Americans are so screwed up. We have such little opportunity to eat vegetables. Now that I’m living uptown in the construction site of my dreams, I’ve been eating out all the time- again. I’ve been aware that I’ve been eating too much meat lately, but have seemed unable to do anything about it. And I realized, as I was in a restaurant with a friend, that the reason is that median-priced restaurants in America rarely serve reliably good vegetables.

When was the last time you had a salad at the diner? A vegetarian meal at a neighborhood place? I’ve had them; we all have, and you know what they have in common? They suck. Even the “side of seasonal vegetables” you get with your 12 ounce steak or pork chop is neither seasonal nor particularly vegetal in flavor. They’re usually over or undercooked vegetables chosen for their contrast of colors.

A good salad with a non-machine oil based dressing should not be this hard to find. Some baked squash or winter greens with bread are not so hard to cook or have standing in a restaurant that they should be home-only luxuries. Come on, people. Give up the iceberg lettuce, white tomatoes and soggy carrots. Give us an opportunity to be good our national colon!