The Omnivorous Fish

I hate crowds. I hate lines. I hate traffic. And yet, I seem to be going to Long Island, on a Sunday, in June. This can only mean one thing: there is something seriously good to eat out there. It might be at a place called North Fork Table and Inn, and I’m excited about it because I haven’t seen a menu like this in a long time. What do I mean? Well, here’s one example from the current tasting menu: Hudson Valley foie gras with with black mission figs, endive and lavender sea salt. I know what you’re thinking, ‘Fish, this is so busy, you must hate it.’ But really, it’s not. It’s local offal (my specialite), fruit (a classic with FG), a salad and salt, albeit an infused one. It’s actually quite simple, with a little elevation. Likewise this long-winded gem from the First Course menu: butter beans, red romaine and favas with green onion buttermilk dressing and applewood smoked bacon. This is a loquacious way of saying pork and beans. This combination has stood the test of time, no doubt.

Yes, there are a few things that made me roll my eyes (bluefin tartare with edamame, ponzu, purple shiso and taro chips), but they just sort of wander around the fringes of things I’d really like to eat (wild salmon gravlax with blini, crème fraiche and dill).

I don’t usually talk about a restaurant before I go to it, but I thought it would be an interesting before and after thing. If I survive the LIE.