The Omnivorous Fish

There are different schools of thought in the food world on the merit of innovation. Some people value it above most, if not all, other qualities, preferring to consider the genius of cocoa-infused anchovy paste barquettes than to savor the sacramental releves of Larousse Gastronomique. Some people spurn it and only begrudgingly accept canard a l’orange. Wherever you fall in the debate, it can be agreed that every so often, it is refreshing to have a meal that is simply excellent. This is a meal that is staid, even predictable, but is of such high quality and executed with such technical expertise that there is no debate to its merit: it is merely fantastic.

Some people might wonder if it’s even worth writing about (or visiting) a restaurant that has been around as long as Union Square Cafe. It has been given its accolades, it has made its mark, it has had its moment; enough. I disagree. Restaurants evolve; they undergo changes in staff, both back-of and front-of-house; they change suppliers and menus and chefs and prices. People also just get plain lazy. Not so with Union Square.

Truth be told, the decor is one thing that might stand a little change. It is simple and understated, mostly timeless, but kissed here and there with touches- like vibrant salmon-hued watercolors of ingredients- that are best described as When-Harry-Met-Sally Provincial. Like a rental apartment from the Reagan era, there is certainly nothing wrong, but its modern touches could use a little updating.

One aspect that needs no updating whatsoever is the service. It seems that a knowledgeable waitstaff has somehow come to mean the suggestion of “favorite dishes” to customers. Truly good service, however, remains a balance of enthusiasm and restraint; it is a mixture of knowledge and the desire to serve. Indeed, the reservationist was apologetic, if not empathetic to the difficulties of securing a table. The waiter was friendly, but cordial, professional. It took a long moment to secure his attention, but once we had it, he was practically ideal. Knowledgeable about the menu and wine list, he gave opinions when asked, but remained otherwise occupied with giving us what we wanted.

The food, uniformly excellent, if sometimes uninspired, remains true to its mission: an American menu with Italian flourishes, prepared to branch out, but never at the sake of flavor or consistency. The first appetizer, Yellowfin Tuna Tartare with Salsa Verde, Spicy Aioli, Asparagus-Radish Salad and Potato Crostini, was perhaps the busiest thing on the menu, but truly a triumph. Highest-quality yellowfin, anointed with flecks of brilliant emerald salsa verde- an earthy, herbaceous amalgam of parsley and salty goodies- and garlicky, piquant mayo, was served with a side of what could best be described as some really fantastic chips. The sparse but flavorful salad broke the texture barrier set up by the crisp chips and yielding fish.

Another appetizer- unfortunately the only pasta sampled- was beautifully made and prepared frascatelli. A tiny dumpling resembling a slice of an gnocchi, but with a lighter texture and pure semolina flavor, the frascatelli were supposedly alla carbonara but in reality were sauced with cream, guanciale (a richly flavored, marvelously baconesque product made from the jowls of the pig; certainly worth a google) and pecorino romano cheese. Delicious by any name, but nary an egg in sight.

The main courses, though not as exciting, demanded no less attention. Tiny, tender grilled lamb chops Scotta Dita- marinated in a basil-infused vinaigrette- were cooked exactly medium rare, served with a tart tangle of sauteed insalata tricolore (arugula, belgian endive and radicchio). A simple but delicious potato-gruyere gratin ensured I wouldn’t have to go a whole course without any type of cheese, thankfully. A Pan-Seared Halibut with Spring Vegetable Farrotto and Mushroom Jus was a crusty piece of fish on a bed of grains with perfectly cooked vegetables. Hardly exciting, it is a clear illustration of the menu’s desire to please without offending anyone. It is one of a few dishes on the menu remarkable only in their uncanny perfection.

Incidentally, these were both superb with a Whitcraft 2004 Pinot Noir from Santa Maria Valley.

Desserts cater mainly to the sweet-tooth crowd, but are very good for what they are. A Rocky Road Baked Alaska with Chocolate Cake & Fudge Sauce was comprised of dense, moist cake with a mound of voluptuous cream-and-egg-filled ice cream. Not to be confused with anything low-fat or compromising in one’s experience; this is the kind of ice cream that people care about. A toadstool of lightly sweetened meringue capped off the presentation, a fantastic nod to desserts of this tradition. For those less enamored of the sweets, the restaurant goes out of its way to have on hand an array of cheeses that would make Murray proud. From Maconnais chevres to Cato’s Corner Hooligan (available steps away at the Saturday Greenmarket), the selections show a desire to bring some lesser known but deserving products to the forefront.

Overall, the restaurant’s dedication to quality and commitment to local purveyors- and the unmistakable beauty of something grown close to where you are eating it- make it worth the trip. Innovation will always be around, but, thankfully, so will Union Square Cafe.

unionsquarecafe.com

212.243.4020